Thursday, June 4, 2015

Gondola Ride....Also known as "Surprise! You are the Gondolier"




When in Venice a Gondola ride is pretty much a must.  Most people choose the popular tourist ride through the Grand Canal.  Jamie and Duane did a little research and found an off the beat Gondola Ride through a company called Row Venice.

This is the look of two women who just realized the romantic gondola ride they were expecting was actually going to be a Gondola Class on how to row a gondola hosted by a very lovely 20-something Venetian Female named Julia.
Lesson #1 Getting in the boat and holding the orr
Lesson #2  Give your wife a heads up about the details of the ride prior to her getting dressed that morning.  As you can tell by the dress, I did not expect to actually do anything strenuous during this gondola ride.  To humor Jamie, I gave the rowing a go before the group actually left the dock.
Duane looks to be a natural!  You can tell this is fairly early into the lesson... Duane is smiling and not dripping sweat.
Every time I see these boats around Venice I have to smile.  The amount of wine being hauled around and the large size of the carafes always amaze me.
When your streets are made of water, it makes perfect sense for your sidewalks to be pegs in the side of a building. Our gondola experience took place first thing in the morning, so many of the boat captains were seen doing as they started their day.
Just like the "sidewalks" the front door and entrance to the boaters home were slightly different,  Many did not have actual doors, they had open windows with ladders on the outside so they could climb out and get to their boats
Jamie's turn!  He was not as lucky as Duane to start out in the marina.  Jamie started his rowing lesson in the middle of the large main lagoon area amidst the taxi boat traffic, speed boats, etc.
What is harder than learning to row in the middle of a busy lagoon?  Learning to trade spots on the gondola without falling in the water or worse yet tipping the entire gondola into the water.  As Julia kept telling the guys... "You have to be FLEX-E-BULL!"
After the guys got used to the rowing motion with Julia helping them steer from the stern, it was time for them to row together.  Working together they did a wonderful job of steering...in a circle....many, many times.  Did I mention that I do not like deep water or small boats???

Duane's day of rowing is done!  He can sit, rest up and enjoy the view with his lovely wife Tari while Jamie steers us home.
O, Captain!  My Captain!  Jamie leading us back into the marina, he looks rather regal doesn't he?  The path back to the marina spot was pretty tight, lined with boats pretty much the entire way.  It took some talent to maneuver the gondola back and not get to friendly with the boats docked along the way.  Jamie may have slightly bumped one, but Julia was there to save the day.
Regardless of the surprise gondola lesson and Tari and I's less then excited attitude it was a fun morning that made many memories we still joke about years later.  One of the big reasons it was so enjoyable was our gondola teacher Julia,  She was very patient, funny and down to earth.  The guys of course had to get a picture with her before we left.  I am pretty sure they both have a copy of this picture in their offices at work, only with the other person cut off it.
Europe and Italy especially has entertaining public signs, but I have to say I think this one tops the list.  I am not sure if they are trying to tell us it is a unisex bathroom, or if this bathroom is only for peeping toms.
We did not make it to the Casino this time, but it always makes me feel very James Bond like to ride by it.
Ahhh...Venice!  The typical Venice photo.... there is no other city in the world that will have a cityscape like this one,
Market Time!  Even though we were staying in a hotel, so we had no need to shop at the Mercato di Rialto, it is still a fun place to wander around.
One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish......Unfortunately no Blue Fish but plenty of Shell Fish
When the merchants call out about their fresh seafood they aren't kidding.  These snails are so fresh they are still alive and crawling out of their container.
On the far opposite side of the island from where our Gondola lesson started this morning we find ourselves in front of the two remaining  Gondola Factories - Squero di San Trovaso and Sqeuro di Tramontin.  The factories do not allow tours, but you can stand on the other side of the canal and watch them do their artistry.
Not sure how much need anyone has for a gondola that looks like a tank, but if you need one, I know where you can get one.
Did we say how warm....freakin' hot it was in Venice?  In case you could not tell by Tari's expression below, it was VERY hot.  I am not sure if her facial expression is from being hot, hungry, or if one of the guys said something dumb.... the chances of it being all three are pretty high.
What makes a hot day seem not so bad?  Why Bubbles of course!!  The view also did not hurt.  We were outside under a canopy right on the main waterway.  A great place to people watch as tourists and locals move along the main boardwalk.
One of Jamie's all time favorites..... Langostinos (sweet baby lobsters) it is pretty much a given if they are on the menu Jamie is ordering them.
Of all the places we ate in Paris, Greve, and Venice... this place had the best little towelettes!  They smelled very lemony and were heavy duty.  They were also great to help cool down from the heat and sun.
Cena di Tipico Di Italia - can't have a meal without pasta, or in this case have pasta be your meal.  When in doubt, it is hard to go wrong with Bolognese or Pene al Pomodoro


Our last night with all four couples in Venice, Duane was looking for a nice bottle for dinner.   To his extreme delight he not only found a bottle, but THE bottle, La Poja.  La Poja has been a long time favorite of Duane's but very hard to find in the States.  A little wine shop across from the gondola factories was hiding the gem at towards the back of the shop.  La Poja is made from the Corvina grape that is grown in the Vento area of Italy.



Go to 3/5/17



Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Tuscany Tour Day - A Little Tried and True and a Little New


                  


Tried and True....

A trip to Italy is never complete until we do a wine day and tour Tuscany with our favorite driver Monika and pop in to see our favorite wine maker, Fernando.







The pretty little town of Montefiorelle is one of our favorite stops and is always a must on our list as it is the home to our favorite wine maker Fernando.

The town itself is more like a little hamlet on a hill.  The town is also the home of Amerigo Vespucci.  The picture above of the door is actually the door to the Vespucci home.  The keystone has the family crest of the bee.

During this trip we actually took some time to wonder the streets of Montefiorelle, the flowers and plants each house had on their front landings were some of the biggest and vibrant ones we had seen.










Right outside of Montefiorelle is Fernando's winery.  His front yard looks out over the hillside of grapes and the town.  The view from his property is one of our favorite views while on vacation.

























Old Friends.... Good Times

One of the best ways to spend a day in Tuscany is to visit Fernando.  Duane and Tari had never been to Fernando's so we had to make sure they were able to meet him and spend time with him.  They have had to spend the last 6 years listening to us talk about all the good memories, so it was only fair they were able to make their own.



As a thank you to Fernando for all the times he visited with us, Jamie brought him a bottle of Pedestal from Long Shadows.  Fernando really likes Walla Walla wines, although he doesn't really explain why.  Jamie told him that it was robust so he could have it with bisteca and to hold on to it for a few years. Fernando said that he was too old to hold it for a few years.  To thank Jamie, he gave him a magnum or 2011 Reserva Chianti.  We are going to have to find a special occasion to open that bottle!


As the visit wound down, everyone was all smiles.  We could have stayed there all day, but there was more wine to be had!







MY NAME IS CECCHINI ……DARIO CECCHINI.


Close by Greve and Montefiorelle is the little town of Panzano.  The town itself is pretty small and pretty quiet... Until you turn a corner and hear AC/DC blaring from an open door.  Then you know you have hit the jackpot!  You are at Dario's!  



Dario's is known for it's AC/DC music, red and white striped outside walls, and meat, meat, meat.  His butcher shop is the reason to go to Panzano.  It is a Carnivore's dream!  The shop is small, but well stocked.  Dario is often behind the butcher counter and greats everyone.  One could easily eat enough samples here (both food and wine) to make a solid lunch.  Besides meat, he also sells seasonings, oil, the best red pepper jelly and the best lardo... yep that is spreadable fat in a jar.


Waiting patiently for us is our driver Monika
                                           
Outside Dario's shop is a plaque to to honor the Chianina cows that are the reason for the wonderful Bisteca alla Fiorentina.  I finally had enough samples, wine, and AC/DC to wait outside as well. 

The Pretty Tuscany Countryside and the fortified town of Volpaia

The drive through Tuscany is always entertaining, just for the curves of the road alone and the threat of a tour bus meeting you on a curve.  The town of Volpaia is nestled in the hills and fortified by stone walls.  The town dates back to the 1100s.



You know you are close to Volpaia when you see the yellow wild flowers above the rooftops.

The inside of the fortified town is like taking a step back in time.  Walking through the town, you see straw brooms, many Terra Cotta planters and vibrant flowers.  It is hard to remember that people still live here and this is not a planned or staged tourist attraction.
Looking into a random window, this big machine stared back at us.  Monika asked what we thought that machine was for, Duane was the first one to correctly guess Olive Press.  The press was still used on a regular basis to make olive oil.

Who needs a mail box when the rock wall of you home has a slot for Posta?

Making our way through the town, you see things that you just are not used to seeing in the States.  There is a main town well, wooden slat doors, alley ways covered in brick, and Vespas appear to be the main mode of transportation



Sometimes only a Coke will do!



New Friends..... Good Times



Monika always finds a new place to try during our stay.  This year she introduced us to I Balzini.   

I Balzini is a classic example of a Tuscan working farm which has grown from the former country farmhouse around which vineyards and olive groves reside.

The name “Balzini” comes from the Tuscan word for small terraces, the exact site on which the vineyards were planted.  

I Balzini is a newer category of wine called IGP. This winery helped pioneer to have "Super Tuscan" wine recognized as an official wine type in Italy.  The winery itself was beautiful and the setting for a wine tasting was one of the best ever.  We sat on a patio under mulberry trees and dined on various meats, cheeses, and pasta while we sampled the wine.  This is definitely a place to visit again.



Obviously Duane takes his wine tasting very seriously... he pulled out his glasses!

Good Friends, Good Location, Good Food, what more is needed?


Our individual plates of Antipasti


We are all smiles as the wine and food continues.  We sat just outside their outdoor kitchen.
One can never have to much pasta.  This was a simple pasta and red sauce, but the flavors were bright it was hard to believe this was such a simple dish.

 

Beautiful views as we wandered the winery.  The wine maker gave us a great tour of the grounds and explained the wine making process.



One more group picture of us in the Tuscan Countryside




More pretty nature photos and rolling hills of Tuscany.  With as many pretty views, it is not unusual to come home with hundreds of pictures of just the country side.
Monika joined for a small portion of tour.


On the Road Again....

The stop at I Balzini was our last stop in Tuscany before Monika took us to the train station in Florence to head to Venice.  Along the way we were able to stop and watch part of the Italian Road Championship bike race.  Since Duane had wanted to see the Tour de France and was not able to, this was a good compromise for him.














Start the day in Tuscany end in Venice!!!

We took the train from Florence to Venice and arrived just around dinner time.  By the time we took a water taxi to our hotel and got settled it was a good time to find a dinner spot.

We decided to try a Rick Steve's recommended place in the Campo Santa Maria area that had outdoor seating.  After travel for part of the day, a casual place was perfect.  If the water, bridges, and gondolas did not tip anyone off that we were in Venice, dinner definitely should have.  Venice is all about fish and pasta.



Our appetizer - nothing like muscles and langostinos.

 Duane looks happy




My favorite.. clams and linguine
Jamie's favorite dish, shrimp risotto


The inside of the restaurant, it was such a nice night, that no one was eating inside.  The perfect way to end a wonderful day, a toast with Limoncello!



Go to 6/4/15